Don't come up and tear down the drive, listen to me, first touch through these places outside that are easiest to overturn the car.
1. Moved parameters or changed a new motor? First check against the nameplate
Many equipments after a major overhaul, modification, or mistakenly restoring parameters, will crazily report F30001. At this time hurry up to flip through the Siemens parameter list, check against the motor's rated current, rated voltage, power factor, and rated speed. If the actual is a 5.5kW motor, and you still leave the old 11kW data in the parameters, the drive used the wrong strength, once the current rushes it definitely overloads. Check the parameters against the aluminum nameplate on the motor's butt one by one, many times the problem is solved right here.
2. Is the motor winding "catching a cold" and leaking electricity?
Especially in that kind of machining workshop where cutting fluid flies everywhere and water vapor is very big, the motor is soaked in oil and water every day, after using for long the internal winding's insulation will drop down, or even phase-to-phase short circuit happens. Measuring with a multimeter might not measure out anything, after all, the multimeter's voltage is too low. Best to take a megohmmeter (shaking table), measure the motor's three-phase winding to ground insulation resistance, then measure if the resistance between the three phases is balanced. If the insulation is already black, and the resistance value is pitifully low, then don't reset anymore, hurry up to tear down the motor and send it to dry or re-wind lines.
3. Don't only stare at the big items, the cables in the routing are easiest to be ignored
The power cables that follow the robotic arm or gantry back and forth to toss in the drag chain every day are easiest to break internally. Sometimes the outer skin looks perfectly fine, the copper wires inside actually have broken more than half, or the insulation skin between two wires is rubbed through. When the equipment walks to a certain specific posture, the broken copper wires just happen to touch together, or touched the machine shell, "Crack!", the overcurrent comes. Checking this needs patience, especially the two ends where the drag chain bends hardest, and the plug connection places, see if there are any signs of scorched or loose.
4. Is the Star-Delta connection (Y/Δ) messed up?
Some motors can both connect to 380V (Star connection), and also connect to 220V (Delta connection). If originally it should be connected into Star type, on-site it was connected into Delta type, once starting the machine the current directly doubles, if the drive doesn't report F30001 it would be a wonder.
5. Is the main power supply missing a phase?
Trouble at the input end will also implicate the output. For example, the front-stage fuse burned one, the contactor contacts are eroded with bad contact, or the air switch screw is loose causing a missing phase. The drive in order to forcefully pull the motor, the remaining two phases will desperately eat current, the result is triggering overcurrent protection. Take a multimeter to go measure if the control cabinet incoming lines L1, L2, L3 are stable, don't busy yourself outside for a big half day, and the result is the fault of the factory's power supply.
Besides those hard troubles above, there are also two belonging to design or on-site commissioning times that are easy to step into pits.
* The "Capacitance Effect" Brought by Long Cables
This is very common on large automation lines or cranes, gantry equipment. The control cabinet is at this end of the workshop, the motor is dozens or even a hundred meters away. Siemens' technical documents actually have written, the cable being too long will cause the parasitic capacitance on the line to become big. When the IGBT high-frequency switch switches, these capacitances will generate very big instantaneous peak currents, even if the motor has no trouble, the drive will also be frightened by this peak current, falsely reporting F30001. If the site distance is really too far, honestly add an output reactor or dv/dt filter into the line.
* Don't Squeeze the Acceleration Time Too Hard
When using V/F control mode to open big inertia loads (like big fans, water pumps, long conveyor belts), if you forcefully want it to soar from standstill to rated speed within 1 second, the motor simply cannot turn, it can only become a huge heating resistor, desperately sucking current. Try to loosen the acceleration time a bit (for example, from 2 seconds changed to 5 seconds or even 10 seconds), let the motor have a buffer, the current naturally goes down.
F30001 and F30021, Don't Be Silly and Unable to Tell These Two Apart
Many people frequently mix up Siemens' F30001 and F30021, feeling that anyway both are current problems, actually their troubleshooting directions are south-pole and north-pole apart:
* F30001: is the output total current too big. Just like the total flow in a water pipe exceeded the standard, showing strength was overused.
* F30021: is detected a ground fault (Ground Fault). Meaning the water flowing out did not come back from the return water pipe, but leaked from the broken place into the ground (like the motor shell short circuit, cable skin broken touching the cabinet body).
Although sometimes they two will appear in pairs and couples, but distinguishing the primary and secondary can make you walk many less wrong ways.
If the Peripherals Are All Checked through and All Are Good, Then It Is Itself Sick
If you aligned the parameters, shook the motor insulation, measured the power line, measured the incoming voltage, and even tore down the mechanical coupling to let the motor run empty, it still thunder-immovably trips F30001 upon starting—alright, don't struggle anymore, the problem is indeed on the drive itself.
Mostly it is the internal IGBT module broken through and short-circuited, the capacitors on the drive board aging and leaking liquid, or the current sampling circuit itself got "brain-muddled" and reported a false alarm. At this time thousands of times don't take a soldering iron inside to blindly poke yourself. SINAMICS power modules' prices are not cheap, and the internal circuits are complex, without a professional testing platform, it is very easy to thoroughly get a small trouble that originally could be fixed to scrapped status.
At this time, a professional maintenance team needs to play on stage.